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Sunday, 22 March 2009
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| Re: Schneider 210mm Angulon. Stefan Patric 04:46:13 |
| | On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 14:25:34 +0000, Keith Tapscott. wrote:
For my 8x10 Camera, I am considering a 210mm Angulon (not super-angulon). How well do these lenses perform provided they are in fine condition?
Had a friend who used it as his prime lens for all his 8x10 fine art b/w
landscape work. Excellent lens. However, if it's an uncoated model,
don't use it for color. The extra flare will cause color casts. For b&w
work, no problems, but I suggest that you use b&w contrast filters to
reduce overall flare and improve image contrast.
You might also consider a Fujinon W 250 f6.7 (not the 6.3 model). It's a
modern, computer designed, multicoated lens with 80+ degree coverage
(about the same as the Angulons) that hit the US market about 30 years
ago. As far as I know, it's not made anymore, but you can find them
used. Excellent lens as were and are all the Fujinons.
These links might be of use:
http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/
large_format_lenses/angulon/
Sorry, it wrapped.
http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/
Stef
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| |  26 answers | Add comment |
Friday, 20 March 2009
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| What You Can Do If They No Longer Make Your Projection Lamp: Guest 15:47:09 |
| |
What You Can Do If They No Longer Make Your Projection Lamp:
Look around in thrift stores, yard sales, and flea markets for
projectors that don't run but the lamp socket is good. You
need to find one with a similar size bulb and power requirements.
Look for a model that uses a very common made and available
lamp such as a CZX for example.
You may have to reference some sites that sell lamps to find
examples of lower cost / easily found bulbs. You can find
these sites on our links page:
http://www.krphoto.com/linksformoviecamerasandprojectors.html
Switch-out the lamp socket between the models- Be sure to
position the "new" socket so new lamp, once installed, is
facing the correct direction for projection (in most cases: Forward).
Depending on which model you find and use, you may have to
make some modifications along the way to get things to work
just right. But the money and future aggrevation you'll save trying
to locate a lamp for your projector that may or may not exist,
and at what cost, will be worth the trouble and time now.
---
Heres a direct link to some folks that deal in belts for projectors.
http://www.film-center.com/parts.html
I have had good luck with using large "O" rings as belts. Try looking
in your local hardware store- ask for the "O" rings and see how large
they are and if they can possibly work for your projector (2"-3"
diameter
is what works best in most cases).
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| | Add comment |
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| Antique & Vintage Camera Forum Guest 15:31:58 |
| |
Search, Ask, Post, or Discuss everything cameras. Topics range from
old
Kodaks to Polaroids and from Projectors to Motion pictures and Movie
cameras.
Anything and everything cameras. Come join the fun!
http://pub19.bravenet.com/forum/1566362123
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| | Add comment |
Thursday, 19 March 2009
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| Share Your Photos n Videos here Vince 12:43:22 |
| | Guys,
Feel free to join this new Social Community Sharing site, for sharing of
photos and videos related to photography.
100% Free and unlimited postings for new members for now.
Click Here: http://www.clickingzone.com
Cheers !!
Vince
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| | Add comment |
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| Join free and upload and share your photos Vince 12:37:11 |
| | Guys,
Feel free to join this new Social Community Sharing site, for sharing of
photos and videos related to photography.
100% Free and unlimited postings for new members for now.
Click Here: http://www.clickingzone.com
Cheers !!
|
| | Add comment |
|
| WTB: Canon AE-1 Program camera body in good working condition for
student BigTuna 04:29:25 |
| | I am looking to buy a good working condition Canon AE-1 Program camera
body.
Please let me know what you have to sell- I promise I will give it a
good home and put it to good use. I already have lenses. I'm
primarily interested in one that is in ready-to-use condition (i.e. no
canon squeak!) or one in excellent cosmetic condition that I can have
a CLA done on.
Thanks!
sharkey1331[remove this spam avoidance block]@hotmail.com
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| | Add comment |
Wednesday, 18 March 2009
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| Re: OLYMPUS D-620L digital camera Bossa Nova 22:39:10 |
| |
"rpmd" <nobody@pseudo.borked.net> wrote in message
news:41a50e2bd4522132413c0b2803387f73@pseudo.borked.net...
* comes with neck strap, memory card, manual and USB memory card reader
I guess that you mistakenly put the decimal point in the wrong place.
Obviously, seeing as how the camera in question is a 1.4mp dinosaur, that
you actually meant to list it at a more realistic price - $9.00. And with
shipping listed as $15.00, the camera still comes up as overpriced. It is no
wonder that you have declined five offers to date.
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| Best Digital Camera at Lowest Price Best Shopping Deals 14:05:20 |
| | Buy digital camera- compare and buy best digital cameras at lowest
price, naaptol.com offers best deal to buy digital cameras with user
reviews at low price online in india. Visit-http://www.naaptol.com/buy-
online/WO-shopping-best-deals-W6O/cameras/digital_cameras.html
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| | Add comment |
Monday, 16 March 2009
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| FS: OLYMPUS D-620L digital camera Rpmd 12:34:16 |
| | * comes with neck strap, memory card, manual and USB memory
card reader
http://atu.ca/OlympusD620L
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| | Add comment |
Sunday, 15 March 2009
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| New photos,looking for imput Snapshot_1124 22:50:59 |
| | Hey everyone ,
I'm Kaitlin and I put a post up about a month ago and asked for
comments on a few of my pictures.
Everyone's comments helped so much and I just wanted to thank you
all .
I've put a few new pictures on my flickr site.
Here's the link to my photostream : http://www.flickr.com/photos/snapshot1124/
I went online looking for help on how to improve my pictures and
everything that you all said that I need work on .
I found an amazing site and the instructor is great. If anyone wants
the website then email me and I will gladly give it to you. I see such
an improvement with my photos and know much more about how to use my
camera.
my email is woahhbabii...@ymail.com
Thanks,
Kaitlin
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| Legacy brochures to dump or wanted Gary G 01:16:12 |
| | Hi all:
I have about 10-15 pounds of old brochures from Hasselblad, Nikon,
Pentax, SunPak, Tenba, all sorts of makers. I'm cleaning out garage
and this stuff has to go. Anybody want this whole collection? If
not, it goes to dump.
I also have a Tenba PBA-K large back pack with Kelty frame. Anybody
want this?
In about one week, all are gone.
gg
Kiss French. Drink California.
gary at gaugler dot com
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| | Add comment |
Friday, 13 March 2009
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| Re: Embedded temperature controller... Krw 21:21:02 |
| | In article <9k8lr41qlj47a8ee8vhkihftl2r02ngtf0@4ax.com>, To-Email-
Use-The-Envelope-Icon@My-Web-Site.com says...>
On Fri, 13 Mar 2009 17:54:03 GMT, Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> wrote: On Thu, 12 Mar 2009 15:05:19 -0700, Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@My-Web-Site.com> wrote: On Thu, 12 Mar 2009 21:09:55 GMT, Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> On Thu, 12 Mar 2009 09:52:07 -0700, Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@My-Web-Site.com> wrote: On Thu, 12 Mar 2009 16:32:30 GMT, Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> You also need to add a 'diverter' to the system, that diverts extra air flow not needed by the fewer ducts, back to the supply side of the fan. Otherwise, you blow those balloons right out the duct! 8-) PS: Those balloons aren't cheap, either! With it likely that Obama's "development of alternate energy sources" is going to double my electric bill, I think I'd better be looking into replacing my 15-year-old "heat pumps" with something more sophisticated/efficient. Servo-controlled registers shouldn't be all that hard to implement on your own... unless you're as dumb as AlwaysWrong or Slowman. Fortunately my house is already well-insulated... I make it thru the Winter with rarely more than a night or two of heat required. "Diversion to supply side" sounds like it could be implemented simply with another duct with a controllable register?? Of course my system would not utilize a single uP  And maybe we _will_ have global _cooling_, beneficial to us CONSERVATIVE desert rats The diverters I studied were all mechanical. Basically, as the pressure reached some value, it forced open a damper between the two sides. It functioned pretty much as a pressure regulator. Of course, all this stuff is real sheet steel, so it isn't really cheap. When you add the motorized dampers for zone control, that is when the real expense kicks in. Some of them were basically on/off, which consisted of a spring loaded flap and a latch. When you wanted it closed, it released the latch. Air flow raised the flap to block that register or zone. It only would re-latch if you stopped the air flow. Not good if your system wants to add flow to a zone that is already stopped. You have to shut down, wait for the presure to drop, the spring to catch, and then you could start up again with the new load setup. Sounds like an MCU sort of operation to me! How about a couple of solenoids to open/close dampers, thermostatically controlled, OR all thermostats to the central unit (AND'd with pressure sensor... exists already on my big systems.) Exactly, that is the level of complexity that comes across. Of course a solenoid takes real power to operate, it has got to move that Not a "vane" type.
Weenies blow with the wind.
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Thursday, 12 March 2009
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| Nikon P90 Robert W Fischer 05:51:31 |
| | New from Nikon, Looks good from the reviews, 24x opital zoom, plus a
whole lot of cool stuff, I know that this is too new for review, but
does anybody have some inside info on this Camera will be selling for
$399.99 due they say in early April Thanks much appreciated
RWFISCHER@webtv.net
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Tuesday, 10 March 2009
Sunday, 8 March 2009
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| Video Tut: Workflow for dramatic, moody bw images Highton-Ridley 17:12:49 |
| | Hi everyone,
I though it would make a nice change for something to be posted which
actually relates to the groups title.
I'm a bw art photographer (well, **I'm** actually human coloured but
my photos are mainly bw) with a fascination with light/line, pattern/
perspective, texture/tone and structure/abstraction.
My mono work is here: http://www.highton-ridley.co.uk/monochrome/
I've put together a video tutorial showing my normal workflow. It
breaks down into two chinks - the first is about creating an HDR
(using Rawshooter Essentials and Dymanic Photo HDR) and the second is
about converting to mono and subsequent treatment in Photoshop.
The video tutorial is here:
http://www.highton-ridley.co.uk/Urban%20Ugliness%20Workflow/Urban%20Ugliness%20Workflow.html
Enjoy!
--Mark Highton Ridley
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Saturday, 7 March 2009
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| Gravity Bleeding John 23:07:53 |
| | Chris - you wrote that you gravity bleed your brakes. So I read up on it.
That is one head smacking solution! So it goes like this, right - make sure
there's plenty of fluid, open the bleeders and so something else for an
hour, close 'em and it's a done deal? (Catch the fluid, of course.)
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| | 6 answers | Add comment |
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